Know your nose.

Were the rules of attraction made to be broken? If not broken, perhaps, enhanced? Who’s to say, but one thing is for certain: finding the right mix of sensuality, and pheromone, is the kind of thing genies have socked away in bottles for centuries. What makes women find a particular man desirable? Every man has a special ‘something’ that makes him unique, be it charm, bicep dimension, the proverbial shoe size, or the PIN number to his debit card. The list is exhaustive, so, how will you set yourself apart? 

You won’t find the answer in your father’s Old Spice, or even in the old school of conventional masculine wisdom. Although your heart’s settled on a favorite aromatic love tonic, does it truly define you? Does it drive the woman in your life passionately crazy, or does it drive her away? 

Give yourself a competitive edge, in the game of love, with the perfect scent for a sophisticated gent such as yourself.  Determine whether you prefer a strong and robust scent or a subtle, yet, clean and cool one. Whichever appeals to your senses, understand why this is so, by getting to know your nose.  From Giorgio Armani to Givenchy, and Ralph Lauren to Bvlgari, with so many scents from which to choose, how will you best decide? 

It’s in the notes. To be precise, the composition of any fine fragrance (male or female) is such that it will feature three distinct elements, or notes (top/head, middle/heart, and base), each unfolding over time; creating a symphony for the senses. Top notes offer an introductory scent that tends to be lighter, yet is highly volatile. Chances are you purchased your favorite scent based on this particular note. Top notes evaporate quickly, so allow a fragrance time to linger.  You will soon discover that the best of it has only begun. 

Enter the middle note. Often referred to as the heart of the fragrance, middle notes are strong and enduring. Remember that you are unique, and no two men will wear the same fragrance alike. When testing a fragrance, wear it no less than 15 minutes. In time, it will emit a signature aroma, as the elements fuse with your body’s natural chemistry. 

Last, but not least, are the base notes. These are the strongest ingredients of a fragrance, and serve as a fixative melding all other notes together. The base note provides for extended wear, of a fragrance, and prolongs its aromatic properties. 

All scents, from the impostor to the designer, belong to one of four distinct categories including Fresh, Floral, Oriental, and Woody (with a central trans-category of Aromatic Fougère). That’s right!  Contrary to popular belief, all fragrances are, in fact, cut from the same cloth.

By concentration, cologne contains 2 – 5% essential oils, and fragrance compounds, in contrast to perfumes, which contain upwards of 20%.  As nature’s perfect stimulants, essential oils induce certain euphoric and relaxing sentiments. Common notes used in male fragrances include Bergamot, Cedar, Ginger, Lavender, Neroli, Patchouli, Sandalwood, and Vetiver. It’s no accident that these are woody, aromatic, tranquil, and soothing. 

So what did Giovanni Paolo Feminis know that the rest of us would pay an arm and leg?  He knew that men deserve special recognition in their quest to enhance the rules of attraction.  In answering this masculine battle cry, Giovanni developed the perfect Scent for a Gent – his 1709 romantic elixir – cologne. Thus, the contemporary concept of male fashion cologne was born. The rest of this story can be found on Saks’ Fifth Avenue, your bedroom armoire, and in every department store worldwide.                                                                                                          

SCENT hints for a GENT:

1. Determine which notes are in your favorite cologne, or other fragrance.
2. Score some free samples online, or the next time you purchase at a department store.
3. Test no more than three scents at a time; any more will cloud your sense of smell.
4. The smell of coffee beans will clear the sinuses; the sales representative will have some.
5. Apply cologne to clean skin, most commonly after a shower.
6. Cologne should be worn on the body; hotspots include wrists, neck, and behind ears.
7. Rubbing wrists together will crush, or breakdown, a scent more rapidly. 
8. Spray cologne into the air, and walk into the mist for even distribution.
9. Store cologne in a cool, dry, place away from direct sunlight.
10. Properly stored cologne will last approximately three years. 

Now that you’ve got the basics, a little trial, and error, is in order. You hereby have permission to slather, spritz, and douse… within in reason.

Examine your motivation. Have you been satisfied with your look until recently? If so, why have you decided to grow a goatee now? Does the new woman in your life drop hints, or, on occasion, make mention of how her ex had one? Did you recently lose a considerable amount of weight?  Are you going through what the rest of the world refers to as a midlife crisis, and want to feel young and virile again?  There are plenty of reasons, or non-reasons, to grow a goatee.  Be honest with yourself and examine your motivation.  Be certain that you are changing your look for you.  When you look into the mirror, you should like what you see – chin and all.  

Consider the time. Have you recently begun to grow your goatee?  In the beginning, your goatee may look somewhat awkward, or downright silly. Consider the time it will take to complete the look you want to achieve. Check your calendar. If your immediate plans, or obligations, include family or wedding photos, or an important speaking engagement, you may want to delay plans for your new chin friend, until a more suitable time. Look – into the mirror – before you leap, and allow your new goatee to grow in peace, not in pieces.

 Consider the upkeep.  How much time will you spend grooming each day?  In order for your goatee to look its best, proper grooming is essential.  If you have minimal time for grooming, wearing a goatee style that requires a high level of maintenance may not be ideal. If your schedule is busy, but your heart is set on wearing a goatee, try opting for a simple style versus something more complex. 

Consider your occupation.  Even in the twenty-first century – the bottom line is – a goatee might not be acceptable to wear in certain occupations. Some employers ask that employees refrain from wearing certain styles of facial hair, or displaying certain types of  piercings, while in their employ, and/or on their premises. If your career path trumps your choice of beard expression, abandon this mission. For most, this will not be a problem, but do use your discretion.

 Understand the shape of your face.  Your goatee should enhance, or compliment your existing facial features. A large face with a narrowly trimmed goatee will appear out of proportion.  On the other hand, a small face with a long or extremely thick goatee will appear overpowered.  Keep in mind that a goatee is not a full beard, and, by definition, only refers to the tuft of hair grown from the chin.  This does grant you some leeway; however, understanding the shape of your face will help you make the best decision.  Round, square, and oval-shaped faces are all complimented by a goatee.  For those with a long face, an actual beard that is fuller on the sides, and short underneath the chin, will serve to create the illusion of being more balanced. 

Consider the style. Throughout history, men have donned various styles of facial hair, including the goatee.  Popularized in the 17th century, by the Flemish painter, Sir Anthony Van Dyck, there are many styles from which to choose.  Wear it alone, with a mustache, or accented by a soul patch (a tuft of hair grown directly below the bottom lip).  Experiment with any number of variations, always keeping your goatee trimmed, neat, and clean.

Don’t ditch the itch.  If you have recently begun to grow your goatee, you may find yourself irritated from the itching.  Be patient, and don’t be so quick to ditch the itch.  Although stubble can be quite annoying, the itching should be non-existent when your goatee has grown to the desired length.  To soothe an itchy chin, try using a dab of talcum powder.

Abandon the peach fuzz.  Be honest with yourself and face the facts: a few lone wiry hairs doth not a goatee make.  Growing a goatee may not be right for you, if it takes more than several weeks to achieve reasonable thickness, or denseness, in the chin hair.  Understand that genetics, and your overall health, determine the quantity, quality, and length of hair on any part of the body.  If the growth pattern of your goatee remains sparse, scraggly, or if you find your chin resembling fruit, it might be time to abandon the peach fuzz. 

Is it fair?  Hair color should not be the determining factor.  Contrary to popular belief, fair-haired goatees can be just as attractive as darker ones.  If you are fair-haired, allow your goatee, or beard, to grow-in before making your final decision.  Oftentimes, beard hair will be several shades darker, but even if this is not the case, a fair-haired goatee might be the right look for you. Lastly, if you are a mature gent, don’t be discouraged by gray hair.  Besides, who says a silver fox has to live on top of your head?  Many women find facial hair extremely attractive, and the more salt-n-pepper – the better.

Consider your partner.  Your partner may not be turned on by a vision of you with chin decorations, of the keratin kind.  Talk to your partner and find out what she thinks.  You may be surprised by her image of a sexier you.  Also, remember that during the awkward stubble phase, delivering a kiss with a tickle, or scratch, may not be on her list of approved romantic gestures. 

Whether you decide to Goatee or Go Bare, be adventurous and enjoy finding the right look for you.

Close, but no cigar

Power used to be flashy. Now, it’s unassuming. It used to brash. Now, it’s calculated. It’s time for you to buy a solid dark tie. No wider then the lapel on your 2 button suit, the dark tie commands respect without expecting it. The dark tie is worn by the first one to work, and the last one to leave. He talks a big game, but still exceeds all expectations. He’s younger then everyone else, and already moving into the corner office. Hell, he deserves it.

You deserve it

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.

-Bravado Living

So what’s the secret? Well, first you should be buying sunglasses that frame your face. Here are the most common facial structures. See which category you fall into.

Square

You have a broad forehead, strong jawline, and square chin.

Oval

You have high cheekbones, narrow chin, and a rounded forehead.

You have a long face- more narrow than it is wide, tall forehead, longer nose, high cheekbones.

Round

The width and length are roughly the same. You have round features, a soft jawline, and full cheeks.

Triangle

You have a wide forehead and narrow chin.

Diamond

You have high cheekbones, slightly narrower forehead, and a narrow chin and jawline.

You may already have an idea of which category you fall into but we want you to go look at yourself in the mirror anyway and notice your features, facial structure, and general shape of your face. This isn’t something you can just imagine and guess, you really have to go look in the mirror and make an honest assessment. Just like hearing your voice recorded for the first time, you will realize you look (or sound) a lot different then you think you do in your head.

Ok now that you know the shape of your face, we will help you pick which sunglasses look best for your face.

Square

Most “professionals” will tell you that need to pick a pair of round sunglasses like cat eyes to counterbalance the hard angles of your face. Personally, we think this is a big mistake. Women love angles, why would you want to minimize or hide them? If you have a square face, pick up a pair of aviators.

We personally like the kinds that have the rounded bottoms because they are more masculine then the square, usually plastic, versions ubiquitous in women’s magazines.

Oval

This style of face is very versatile because it has elements of several different facial structures. Regardless, we love the classic RayBan Wayfarer on this face. It’s a throwback to the 80′s that let’s people know that you mean business, but you probably play guitar for an indy band at a dive bar on the weekends. You eclectic son of a gun.

Oblong

Tear drop aviators. These type of aviators droop down your cheek and, well, resemble a tear drop. This helps add width to the face and eliminate the proportional disparity. Feel free to get some aviators with contrasting or plastic temples because those also width to your face. Don’t be tempted by square frames as these will elongate your forehead. Stick with some classic pilot aviators, and you’ll never look back.

Round

Now while the oblong face needs sunglasses to add width, you need your sunglasses to make your face longer. The best way to do this is with sunglasses with very prominent temples and brow bars. Double brow bars, top-rimmed sunglasses, and mirror finish lenses all accomplish the same effect. Rectangle lenses also work best on you, but make sure the rectangles are not too narrow as this will have the opposite effect desired.

Triangle

If you have a triangle face, you need to strengthen your jawline. Sunglasses with a very prominent lens will accomplish this for you. Strong rimmed sunglasses, or large rectangular lenses will help angle your jawline and take the point out of your chin. Look for large rectangular aviators, metal frames with rimless bottoms, and frames with a straight top line.

Diamond

This facial style is very similar to the triangle in terms of needs, but needs to be careful not to accentuate the already prominent cheekbones. Fortunately, like square faces, rectangular aviators with rounded frames will help to accomplish this objective.

A few final words of advice:

• Stick to black, silver, or brown frames
• Stick to black, brown, or mirror tinted lenses
• No white frames. Douchebag.
• No wearing them inside. Period.
• Don’t buy sunglasses without trying them on first

If you follow this advice you should be looking like a rockstar in no time.

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.

-The Haute Spot

]]> http://bravadoliving.com/2010/05/30/how-to-pick-sunglasses-for-your-face/feed/ 4 http://bravadoliving.com/2010/02/18/jeans-and-blazer-upgrade/ http://bravadoliving.com/2010/02/18/jeans-and-blazer-upgrade/#comments Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:35:54 +0000 A.I. http://thehautespot.com/?p=258

No

Just because you’re wearing jeans and blazer does not mean you look good. If it looks like you borrowed your dad’s jacket, and are still wearing the same jeans you wore in high school then it’s time you change the way you shop. If you haven’t already followed our advice make sure everything you wear is slimmer and form-flattering.

If nothing is form flattering for you– then you’re probably fat-lose weight.

When you wear a button-down and blazer you need to get a shirt that fits well. Only a sliver of shirt cuff should show near your wrists. This means the shirt must fit you slim as well. No more bunching at the waist. That gives you the appearance of love handles even if you have a 6-pack.

Lose the baggy shirts Soulja Boi

Also square-toe shoes are never in fashion. They are the PT Cruisers of the fashion world. Never cool, but their owners are oblivious.

Next, the blazer. Make sure blazers hug your shoulders, and get a tailor to take it in at the waist and arms.

Jeans that are meant to go out should be dark. Hell, all your jeans should be dark. Opt for a dark navy with no crazy designs. We like Rock and Republic for their simple elegance and the lack of a douche bag stigma associated with True Religion. Make sure they fit you like your khakis do. Snug but not 80′s metal tight. If I can count the coins in your pocket- use them to call a tailor.

Spring for a nice pair- even if they’re $200 bucks. If you wear them 50 times over the next four years, they’ll be cheaper than that $60 dollar shirt sitting in your closet for that past five. Remember fashion rule number seven.

You follow this simple advice, you’ll walk on water next time you go out.

Unshakably Confident

Save the jumping for Kobe though.

Blazer, $2,025, and jeans, $450, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shirt, $168, by Steven Alan. Shoes, $820, by Church’s.

Sign up here

Registration is free, they don’t spam your inbox with emails, and the deals inside feel like you’re robbing someone. The site even feels like a black market- dark, spooky, and filled with rock bottom prices, exclusive membership just adds to the allure. Check it out- you won’t regret it.

A. Testoni Italian Bench Made Cognac Oxford -Regular Price $1,830 Sale Price $330

They even have stuff for the home, women, and children.

Sign up here

Suits? Arguable. In the 90′s it was all about 3-Button Suits. In the Early 2000′s vested 3-piece suits became all the rage. Now conjuring your best “Mad Men” impression 2-button suits are the only thing worth wearing.

Black Oxford Shoe? Good choice. But you can’t deny the popularity of laceless slip-ons, and the dismal ubiquity of square toed rubber bottom atrocities that plagued every middle-management type throughout the 90′s.

The Pea Coat has remained unchanged. Sure you have options. You can go single breasted, double breasted, short, long, camel, black, regardless of your choice we can guarantee you one thing– if you buy one, you will be able to wear it. Every. Single. Year. Regardless of the current fashion trend.

Which is why we recommend you don’t just buy one, we at THS recommend you invest in one.

Here are a few suggestions when looking for one.

1.) Fit is Everything

You want to wear a coat. You don’t want a coat to wear you. Get one in the same size as your suit jacket, not a size bigger. Take it to a tailor if you need to. If the shoulders of the jacket are hanging off your bony frame, and the arms look like you’re wearing a snuggie– then it looks like someone brought their kid to work day rather than commanding the respect you deserve.

Camel Cashmere Coat by Calvin Klein $1,995

If you want to be daddy; you can’t  look like you’re borrowing daddy’s clothes.

In terms of length you can go shorter, but the just shorter than knee length version is as classic as it gets.

2.) Know your colors

Black-Classic. The original. Resists stains the best, and will never fail you. Looks great with almost every color suit you own except that sharp chocolate brown one you save for casual friday.

Burberry Top Coat $2,300

Blue-Not just any blue. Navy Blue. This one is sharp. Get a cashmere blend so it has a sheen to it. Looks better on than a black topcoat with almost every color suit you own. Plus, it won’t clash when you decide to wear brown leathers instead of black- in fact it will enhance the outfit. If you buy just one color. This is it.

Navy Cashmere Coat by Prada $4,155

Grey-A nice alternative on days where you want your dark suit to really stand out.

Top Coat by Z. Zegna $1,095

Camel- The Ferrari of top coats. This color will make you stand out- and that’s what it’s designed to do. In an elevator of black, blue, and grey, the camel coat will get you noticed. Just take off the shades. You’re not that cool.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Coat $4,995

Also FYI: Camel-Haired coats are actually camel hair while Camel-Colored can be made from any fabric.

3.) Know your fit

Single Breasted- Going with a dark colored, single-breasted top coat and you will never go wrong. It’s also the most likely to fit flatteringly.

Fred Perry Top Coat $480

Double Breasted- Get this cut slim. It’s vital. With double the breast, you also get double the coat. Get a modern fit that compliments your figure, not disfigures it. The double-breasted also hails from days in the military, giving it a much more aggressive look. In the cutthroat environment of business-we’re not so sure that’s a bad thing.

Black Wool Coat by Burberry $2,250

Tip: Get your coat sprayed with suede protector. Not only will it become water repellent but will resist that unavoidable coffee spill in the elevator the first day you wear it.

With this new found knowledge you should be ready to upgrade your wardrobe and get the only piece of clothing that may outlast you.

[Hat Tip]

Bespoke Shoe Artisan

Women appreciate fashion for how it makes them look, the perceived social status associated with certain brands, and whether or not they received a bargain, among other things, but they are rarely interested in the craftsmanship of the pieces.

Men, on the other hand, in circles of high-end luxury, want to know everything about the piece they are buying. They are not merely buying a piece of jewelry that is “in style” this season, they are buying an heirloom that will last generations. They do not just purchase shoes for tonight’s party, they buy investments that will last them a lifetime.

Bespoke Suit Construction

If that wasn’t the case then videos explaining how to Assemble an AP Royal Oak Grande Complication wouldn’t interest us, shoe shine events wouldn’t be a success, and tailors wouldn’t be in such high demand.

It might be a little unnecessary to be so heavily invested in ones style, but we believe any investment of this magnitude is worth this level of attention.

Breguet Grande Complication (Marie Antoinette Tribute)

We wouldn’t have it any other way.

[Inspiration]

Black Leather with Silver Accents

Your bread and butter

Black leather with silver accents. The quintessential leather/metal combo. Chances are you already have this look covered. This collection will cover everything from conservative days at the office, to weddings, to anchoring your jeans and blazer combo. Extremely versatile and nearly foolproof.

The black and silver collection may be nearly foolproof, but somehow some guys still manage to screw it up. The one mistake, you can make, in this particular collection, is not recognizing the level of formality a particular piece has, and failing to stick to the same family. This goes beyond wearing a silver banded watch with your tuxedo (always wear a leather banded watch), but wearing rubber soled shoes with a suit, an athletic watch with your blazer, or a jean belt with your slacks. These are all mistakes-that while not incredibly important, prevent your outfit from becoming truly world class.

Porsche Design Cufflinks $540: Cufflinks exude power and class. Even if you don’t have the corner office yet doesn’t mean you can’t dress like you do.

Cole Haan Attache $775: Keep your dad’s briefcase at home. Your attache should be slim, and only carry the essentials.

Piaget Watch $12,000: Cufflinks and a Brietling are too much. Keep your watch subtle and elegant.

Salvatorre Ferragamo Shoes $550: If you don’t have a pair of Italian leather shoes, go buy a pair now. We mean it.

Persol Sunglasses $360: No need for a gaudy brand slapped on the side, keep it classic.

Calvin Klein Belt $325: High quality leather with a simple buckle that will never go out of fashion

Church’s Breast Pocket Wallet $320: Keep the bulge out of your pants, and go with this much more formal breast pocket wallet

Black Rubber with Silver Accents: Casual Edition

For Jeans and Blazer Days

If you’re lucky enough to work in a place that allows jeans, then tone your formality down a notch. Swap leather for rubber. This look implies that no one can tell you how to dress, because chances are– you’re the boss. That you park an Alfa Romeo, and not that sedan you actually drive. Subdued, but elegant, this collection is as rugged as it is refined.

Banana Republic Shoes $158: Not only are rubber soled shoes more comfortable, they look more casual too.

Cartier Santos Watch $5,900: The ultimate sport watch. The rubber strap completes the theme of this look.

Fabien Baron Sunglasses $375: Jeans? and Aviators? Who is this guy?

Louis Vuitton Messenger Bag $1500: Swap the briefcase for the shoulder bag and don’t look back

Dior Key Ring $165: Something has to hold your car keys right?

Church’s Belt $165: A little thicker of a belt to prevent your jeans from rolling down

Ermenigildo Zegna Case $275: Yeah. Just because.

Gold with Brown Leather

For the classiest of gentlemen

When we were younger, and obviously much more naive, we avoided gold like the plague. Considering it too gaudy, we now recognize it’s timeless appeal and it’s synonymous nature with class. Other then black leather with silver accents, no other look demands more respect. Some may even argue that this collection demands even more respect (us).

It is a slightly more difficult collection to complete as your hues of leather may vary, gold is a little more expensive than silver, and simply the pieces are harder to come by- but we believe that once complete, no collection looks better with a navy suit (the staple of a man’s wardrobe).

Prada Briefcase $1,900: Make sure that it cuts slim, and only holds your essentials. You want to make it seem like you bring some work home, not bring work to home.

Hermes Belt $600: Cut slim for your flat front pants, and anchored solid with that beautiful buckle.

Prada Aviators $270: Wire rimmed and horn accented. These puppies make anyone look like a movie star.

Constantin Durmont Skeleton Watch $3,700: You don’t own this watch. You merely hold onto it for the next generation.

Ferragamo Shoes $550: The high vamp on this shoe makes it look like a demi-boot. The gold accent doesn’t hurt either.

Mont Blanc Cufflinks $190: For the real power players in your office.

Silver with Chocolate Brown Leather

For the man on the go

If you work on the road, or travel often, this collection is calling your name. The ultimate paradox, classic yet casual- brown leather with silver accents. It remembers that this country wasn’t built by men wearing suits, and rebelliously call out to this time past. Unpretentious. Unassuming. This look shows that if you are waiting for something to turn up, you should start with your shirt sleeves.

Blinde Sunglasses $425: Wire frames match the on-the-go mentality of this collection

Rolex Watch $4,400: The tie-free look should come with an equally casual looking watch

Calvin Klein Attache $650: Matches your shoes chocolate brown and the pebbled leather borrows from the cowboy that inspired this look

Tag Heuer Cell Phone $4,565: Tag over values it’s brand. Don’t buy this overly expensive piece of equipment- we just couldn’t photoshop this out of the picture.

Want Les Credit Card Holder $115: Cash in your breast pocket, cards in your back.

Gucci Shoes $595: Wear them in but keep them shined. Wrinkles look good.

Tod’s Billfold $245: Once again, yeah. Just because.

Camel Leather with Silver Accents

European Elegance

If chocolate brown leather with silver accents is unpretentious, then camel leather says “Money is no object.” Wear this collection wisely because very few men have a single piece in camel leather, let alone a whole matching outfit- and once you do, you will be pegged as a fashion forward man forever. Worn with a charcoal, navy, or shark skin suit, this look exudes the utmost in modern luxury.

John Varvatos Shoes $395: It always starts with the shoes

Delvaux Folio $1,756: The attache that will bring this look together, once again cut as slim as your suit.

Goyard at Barney’s Wallet $515: Pulling out a camel colored wallet might be overkill. That’s why you’re gonna do it.

Gucci Watch $1.895: If your going for a look that says money is no object then an alligator banded watch is only appropriate

Belt, $550, by J.M. Weston. Sunglasses, $350, by Cutler and Gross. Card Case, $190, by Valextra at Barneys New York, Paul Stuart Clip $78

Feel free to mix and match to your heart’s desire. Build your collection slowly, and you will be ready to go for any occasion.

BUY IT Cotton Lisle Heel & Toe Socks by Aspinal of London $16.00