Close, but no cigar

Power used to be flashy. Now, it’s unassuming. It used to brash. Now, it’s calculated. It’s time for you to buy a solid dark tie. No wider then the lapel on your 2 button suit, the dark tie commands respect without expecting it. The dark tie is worn by the first one to work, and the last one to leave. He talks a big game, but still exceeds all expectations. He’s younger then everyone else, and already moving into the corner office. Hell, he deserves it.

You deserve it

Good Luck and Happy Hunting.

-Bravado Living

Suits? Arguable. In the 90′s it was all about 3-Button Suits. In the Early 2000′s vested 3-piece suits became all the rage. Now conjuring your best “Mad Men” impression 2-button suits are the only thing worth wearing.

Black Oxford Shoe? Good choice. But you can’t deny the popularity of laceless slip-ons, and the dismal ubiquity of square toed rubber bottom atrocities that plagued every middle-management type throughout the 90′s.

The Pea Coat has remained unchanged. Sure you have options. You can go single breasted, double breasted, short, long, camel, black, regardless of your choice we can guarantee you one thing– if you buy one, you will be able to wear it. Every. Single. Year. Regardless of the current fashion trend.

Which is why we recommend you don’t just buy one, we at THS recommend you invest in one.

Here are a few suggestions when looking for one.

1.) Fit is Everything

You want to wear a coat. You don’t want a coat to wear you. Get one in the same size as your suit jacket, not a size bigger. Take it to a tailor if you need to. If the shoulders of the jacket are hanging off your bony frame, and the arms look like you’re wearing a snuggie– then it looks like someone brought their kid to work day rather than commanding the respect you deserve.

Camel Cashmere Coat by Calvin Klein $1,995

If you want to be daddy; you can’t  look like you’re borrowing daddy’s clothes.

In terms of length you can go shorter, but the just shorter than knee length version is as classic as it gets.

2.) Know your colors

Black-Classic. The original. Resists stains the best, and will never fail you. Looks great with almost every color suit you own except that sharp chocolate brown one you save for casual friday.

Burberry Top Coat $2,300

Blue-Not just any blue. Navy Blue. This one is sharp. Get a cashmere blend so it has a sheen to it. Looks better on than a black topcoat with almost every color suit you own. Plus, it won’t clash when you decide to wear brown leathers instead of black- in fact it will enhance the outfit. If you buy just one color. This is it.

Navy Cashmere Coat by Prada $4,155

Grey-A nice alternative on days where you want your dark suit to really stand out.

Top Coat by Z. Zegna $1,095

Camel- The Ferrari of top coats. This color will make you stand out- and that’s what it’s designed to do. In an elevator of black, blue, and grey, the camel coat will get you noticed. Just take off the shades. You’re not that cool.

Ralph Lauren Purple Label Coat $4,995

Also FYI: Camel-Haired coats are actually camel hair while Camel-Colored can be made from any fabric.

3.) Know your fit

Single Breasted- Going with a dark colored, single-breasted top coat and you will never go wrong. It’s also the most likely to fit flatteringly.

Fred Perry Top Coat $480

Double Breasted- Get this cut slim. It’s vital. With double the breast, you also get double the coat. Get a modern fit that compliments your figure, not disfigures it. The double-breasted also hails from days in the military, giving it a much more aggressive look. In the cutthroat environment of business-we’re not so sure that’s a bad thing.

Black Wool Coat by Burberry $2,250

Tip: Get your coat sprayed with suede protector. Not only will it become water repellent but will resist that unavoidable coffee spill in the elevator the first day you wear it.

With this new found knowledge you should be ready to upgrade your wardrobe and get the only piece of clothing that may outlast you.

[Hat Tip]

Black Leather with Silver Accents

Your bread and butter

Black leather with silver accents. The quintessential leather/metal combo. Chances are you already have this look covered. This collection will cover everything from conservative days at the office, to weddings, to anchoring your jeans and blazer combo. Extremely versatile and nearly foolproof.

The black and silver collection may be nearly foolproof, but somehow some guys still manage to screw it up. The one mistake, you can make, in this particular collection, is not recognizing the level of formality a particular piece has, and failing to stick to the same family. This goes beyond wearing a silver banded watch with your tuxedo (always wear a leather banded watch), but wearing rubber soled shoes with a suit, an athletic watch with your blazer, or a jean belt with your slacks. These are all mistakes-that while not incredibly important, prevent your outfit from becoming truly world class.

Porsche Design Cufflinks $540: Cufflinks exude power and class. Even if you don’t have the corner office yet doesn’t mean you can’t dress like you do.

Cole Haan Attache $775: Keep your dad’s briefcase at home. Your attache should be slim, and only carry the essentials.

Piaget Watch $12,000: Cufflinks and a Brietling are too much. Keep your watch subtle and elegant.

Salvatorre Ferragamo Shoes $550: If you don’t have a pair of Italian leather shoes, go buy a pair now. We mean it.

Persol Sunglasses $360: No need for a gaudy brand slapped on the side, keep it classic.

Calvin Klein Belt $325: High quality leather with a simple buckle that will never go out of fashion

Church’s Breast Pocket Wallet $320: Keep the bulge out of your pants, and go with this much more formal breast pocket wallet

Black Rubber with Silver Accents: Casual Edition

For Jeans and Blazer Days

If you’re lucky enough to work in a place that allows jeans, then tone your formality down a notch. Swap leather for rubber. This look implies that no one can tell you how to dress, because chances are– you’re the boss. That you park an Alfa Romeo, and not that sedan you actually drive. Subdued, but elegant, this collection is as rugged as it is refined.

Banana Republic Shoes $158: Not only are rubber soled shoes more comfortable, they look more casual too.

Cartier Santos Watch $5,900: The ultimate sport watch. The rubber strap completes the theme of this look.

Fabien Baron Sunglasses $375: Jeans? and Aviators? Who is this guy?

Louis Vuitton Messenger Bag $1500: Swap the briefcase for the shoulder bag and don’t look back

Dior Key Ring $165: Something has to hold your car keys right?

Church’s Belt $165: A little thicker of a belt to prevent your jeans from rolling down

Ermenigildo Zegna Case $275: Yeah. Just because.

Gold with Brown Leather

For the classiest of gentlemen

When we were younger, and obviously much more naive, we avoided gold like the plague. Considering it too gaudy, we now recognize it’s timeless appeal and it’s synonymous nature with class. Other then black leather with silver accents, no other look demands more respect. Some may even argue that this collection demands even more respect (us).

It is a slightly more difficult collection to complete as your hues of leather may vary, gold is a little more expensive than silver, and simply the pieces are harder to come by- but we believe that once complete, no collection looks better with a navy suit (the staple of a man’s wardrobe).

Prada Briefcase $1,900: Make sure that it cuts slim, and only holds your essentials. You want to make it seem like you bring some work home, not bring work to home.

Hermes Belt $600: Cut slim for your flat front pants, and anchored solid with that beautiful buckle.

Prada Aviators $270: Wire rimmed and horn accented. These puppies make anyone look like a movie star.

Constantin Durmont Skeleton Watch $3,700: You don’t own this watch. You merely hold onto it for the next generation.

Ferragamo Shoes $550: The high vamp on this shoe makes it look like a demi-boot. The gold accent doesn’t hurt either.

Mont Blanc Cufflinks $190: For the real power players in your office.

Silver with Chocolate Brown Leather

For the man on the go

If you work on the road, or travel often, this collection is calling your name. The ultimate paradox, classic yet casual- brown leather with silver accents. It remembers that this country wasn’t built by men wearing suits, and rebelliously call out to this time past. Unpretentious. Unassuming. This look shows that if you are waiting for something to turn up, you should start with your shirt sleeves.

Blinde Sunglasses $425: Wire frames match the on-the-go mentality of this collection

Rolex Watch $4,400: The tie-free look should come with an equally casual looking watch

Calvin Klein Attache $650: Matches your shoes chocolate brown and the pebbled leather borrows from the cowboy that inspired this look

Tag Heuer Cell Phone $4,565: Tag over values it’s brand. Don’t buy this overly expensive piece of equipment- we just couldn’t photoshop this out of the picture.

Want Les Credit Card Holder $115: Cash in your breast pocket, cards in your back.

Gucci Shoes $595: Wear them in but keep them shined. Wrinkles look good.

Tod’s Billfold $245: Once again, yeah. Just because.

Camel Leather with Silver Accents

European Elegance

If chocolate brown leather with silver accents is unpretentious, then camel leather says “Money is no object.” Wear this collection wisely because very few men have a single piece in camel leather, let alone a whole matching outfit- and once you do, you will be pegged as a fashion forward man forever. Worn with a charcoal, navy, or shark skin suit, this look exudes the utmost in modern luxury.

John Varvatos Shoes $395: It always starts with the shoes

Delvaux Folio $1,756: The attache that will bring this look together, once again cut as slim as your suit.

Goyard at Barney’s Wallet $515: Pulling out a camel colored wallet might be overkill. That’s why you’re gonna do it.

Gucci Watch $1.895: If your going for a look that says money is no object then an alligator banded watch is only appropriate

Belt, $550, by J.M. Weston. Sunglasses, $350, by Cutler and Gross. Card Case, $190, by Valextra at Barneys New York, Paul Stuart Clip $78

Feel free to mix and match to your heart’s desire. Build your collection slowly, and you will be ready to go for any occasion.

You can get the tie in either madder blue(featured above) or in navy green. I personally prefer the madder blue, but that just might be because I enjoy the pairing of warm colors on blue better than I do on green. The tie has an approximate width of 3 1/2 in. and a length of 58 in. It’s made in the US from imported fabrics. Keep in mind that it is silk and has to be dry cleaned. It would be a shame to ruin such a great tie.

BUY IT Robert Talbott ‘Best of Class’ Woven Silk Tie $115.00

“This is another peek at the new collections that are popping up this upcoming spring. This is a gingham shirt by Hyden Yoo Vilas. If I was an up and coming young banker or advertising exec who wants to seem professional but still hip, this is what I would wear. I feel that Hyden Yoo Vilas has a really great relaxed personal style that is always being communicated throughout all his pieces, be they a tweed suit or a t-shirt.
I think this shirt is snazzy as hell. I can just imagine the hot girl at the office mouthing those words as I pass by in this little number. I really enjoy the dark checkered patter and how it is very nicely accentuated by that large black stripe that goes down the center.

$156, Oak, 208 N. Eighth St., Brooklyn, NY, (718) 782-0521, oaknyc.com

Ties are a great way to set off a dress shirt, add a little more spice or presence to your person. They can also make you look like a douchy clown who got pelted with melted crayons. Sometimes, I feel, some guys just have no idea that the tie they are wearing is taking away attention from the rest of their attire. You don’t want to wear colors that seem to be visual equivalent to a scream. There has to be some correlation between this and the fact that men are more susceptible to color-blindness. Of course, we might never know if men are buying bad ties because they can’t see the colors or are the colors burning out the retinas of men? Who knows, chicken and the egg.

This Jacquard silk tie by Gucci is exactly the type of tie men should be buying. The colors are soft and perfect for adding some subtle presence, coming in both the above-pictured silver one and a much darker blue one. The design is great too, with the renowned double G symbol that often adorns Gucci products and some tiny dots. This type of tie is great for almost all occasions. It is equally at home in the office, at weddings, brunch, lunch, or at a formal evening party.

BUY IT Gucci Jacquard Tie $180

Next you’ll need to accessorize. If your jacket has a pocket, put something in it. And try to stay from Cuff links because they are difficult to pull off due to their formality so unless you’re Jason Stratham, or you’ve got a bow-tie hanging loose to match I’d stick to button sleeves.

Next, and most important is a fitted shirt with a STIFF collar. There’s nothing worse than a limp collar  hiding behind your jacket lapel. Make sure your collar stays upright and the shirt stays tight around your stomach ( you don’t need to look like you have a gut when you’ve been working so hard to get rid of it, right?). For the money, Express’s 1MX shirts are remarkably good at behaving and will work in a pinch.

And remember that none of this stuff matters if you don’t get clothes that fit.

Well Done Sir

Looks like Jason has been reading The Haute Spot recently.

Suit, $1,595, and shirt, $270, by Dolce & Gabbana. Shoes, $550, by Allen-Edmonds Seven. Pocket square by Robert Talbott. Briefcase by Hermès.

-GQ

]]> http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/20/learn-to-go-tieless/feed/ 1 http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/ http://bravadoliving.com/2009/07/13/wearing-lighter-color-socks/#comments Mon, 13 Jul 2009 16:28:41 +0000 Chuck Nelson http://thehautespot.com/?p=329 There is a saying that a man’s socks should be the same color as his trousers but a bit darker. Well, when no complementary colored hose are available a pair that is the color of the trousers will do. Just. But I prefer to see them somewhat lighter than the trousers rather than darker.

That is because the eye slides over darker socks to focus on the shoes. That same eye stops at lighter colored socks, and focuses on the combination of trousers, socks and shoes. Which ought to be considerably more interesting.

Wear lighter colored socks.

-A Suitable Wardrobe

This cliché is arguably the most overused fashion advice when it comes to men. Despite this, men often neglect the choice and care of their footwear. The longevity and beauty of a man’s shoes is first determined by the quality of the shoe itself. However, once a quality shoe is acquired, proper care must be administered to ensure not only that the beauty of the shoe is enhanced, but the life of the shoe is extended.

Choosing a quality shoe:

Contrary to popular belief it does not take 400 dollars plus to purchase a quality bench-crafted Italian made shoe. At rare times these shoes are discounted anywhere for 20-50% allowing you, the consumer, to build an impressive collection at a fraction of the cost. Develop a relationship with your local shoe salesman and you’ll never pay full price again. Choose a shoe from a reputable brand with a leather sole and attractive shape (never square toe or thick rubber soled) and you’ll be on your way to starting your shoe collection. Additionally a leather sole molds to your foot, and becomes increasingly glove like over time. Install toe taps in your shoes approximately six-twelve months after purchasing to help further reduce wear on your shoes.

Caring for the Shoe:

Congratulations! You’ve just made a substantial step in improving your wardrobe. One of the simplest but often most unappreciated step is using full cedar shoe trees. Inserting them while your shoes are still sweaty is crucial to removing excess perspiration from the leather before it gets absorbed. Sweat is acidic which breaks down the leather thus making it softer and more susceptible to wrinkling. If you wear oxfords often, make sure you have a selection to cycle through to avoid wearing the same pair two days in a row. Shoe trees require a day to fully cure the leather and wearing a shoe the following day can shorten the life of a shoe drastically and create additional premature wrinkles in the leather. When the shoe tree gets old and loses its aromatic properties just rub it down with smooth grit sandpaper to rejuvenate its properties. This step alone will improve the life and beauty of the shoe by several years.

Shining Your Shoes:

Nothing is more impressive than a freshly shined pair of shoes. Shined shoes not only look great but they repel scuffs better. For this reason I always recommend to shine a brand new pair of shoes before you even wear them. This way if you scrape the shoe, you only scuff the polish and not the leather.

Saddle Soap:

This is the first step in shining your new shoes. This removes any old dust, wax, polish, and residue from the leather giving you a clean slate to work with. Applying polish over polish diminishes the shine and clogs the leather. Use a small horse hair applicator; lather the soap using a circular motion and water. Be very generous and get the leather extremely soapy. Avoid using on light colored shoes as this is a harsh product and will strip some colors. As with all products, apply on one shoe then apply on the other shoe before wiping the soap off both shoes with an old t-shirt or cloth in the same order.

Leather Lotion:

Wax-less Leather Care or Leather Lotion is one of the most beneficial products to leather on the market today. It moisturizes and rejuvenates the color of leather shoes. People often forget that leather is a skin and needs moisture to retain its vigor. Use this product generously and often, even in-between shines, to help prolong the life of your upper shoe. Apply this product with an old t-shirt or even your fingers and allow it to air dry into the leather.

Shoe Polish:

Now that the leather is clean and primed it is ready to accept the shoe polish. Always test the color on the tongue or another inconspicuous spot to ensure a match of color. Apply in a circular motion with an old t-shirt, applicator, or finger to the shoe starting from the front and working your way completely around the shoe. Remove the laces if necessary and ensure you coat the entire shoe in a light film of polish. Allow the polish to dry to a haze while you polish the other shoe. Use a large horse hair brush to remove the haze from the first shoe, and work your way from the front to the back. Pay close attention to the toe and heel as this is the most noticed parts of a shoe. The longer your brush the shoe, the shinier it will get so brush until you get the desired effect.

Wax Polish:

If you want to achieve an even more impressive shine, using a solid wax polish is the best way to achieve a mirror shine. Never use liquid wax as this dries out leather and causes it to crack. Ignite the wax block on fire, or use the heat from your finger to soften the paste and apply with your finger in a circular motion. Use sparingly as wax polish dries quick. Apply in a circular motion in the same manner as the shoe polish and buff away. Once again the longer you brush the shinier the shoe will get. Some leathers will marbleize if you use a rag to wipe down the leather after your finished buffing it. Then again sometimes the shine smears if you try to use a rag. It comes with experience and you can truly enhance the shine by using a shine rag to buff the leather after your finished brushing it.

Edge Dressing:

The icing on the cake, edge dressing, colors in the sides of your leather soles to make them look brand new. Truly a step that should not be missed, edge dressing, makes a shoe look better than brand new. Edge dressing can also be used to color in deep scuff marks that polish or wax can’t cover up. Edge dressing is completely optional however, and does not affect the longevity of the shoe. Regardless of the steps you take, by now the shine should be mirror bright and impressive enough for any corporate meeting.

If there is one category in your wardrobe worth investing in, it’s your footwear. If you take care of your feet, they will take care of you. Both in terms of comfort and in corporate clout. Your friends will never understand-or even notice the quality footwear completing your outfit, but your boss’ boss will.

1. Honor thy tailor

Even the best suits need altering. Pants need to be shortened, jackets need to be brought in, sleeves need to be narrowed (yes, you can ask your tailor to slim down your sleeves), and buttons need to be realigned with buttonholes (most guys’ shoulders aren’t entirely even, meaning your jacket often sits a bit askew). You should always buy your correct size, but you then need to have a tailor customize it to your body. It’s the difference between being appropriately dressed and being stylishly dressed.

2. Thou shalt wear sneakers made for a man

It’s fine to own crosstrainers and running shoes and hightops. But save them for the gym. When you’re on the street, keep your sneakers simple and classic. Go for ones like Stan Smiths, Jack Purcells, and Sambas. They work with everything, including suits.

3. Thou shalt invest in the right timepiece

Buy a high-quality stainless-steel watch. It looks as right with jeans as it does with your best blazer.

4. Thou shalt match your socks with your suit

When choosing socks, the basic rule is to consider the suit instead of the shoe—in other words, if you’re wearing a navy suit with black shoes, reach for navy socks. And when wearing a light suit, make sure the socks are darker than the suit but a shade or so lighter than the shoes.

5. Thou shalt not wear a tie that is too slim

Unless you’re a hard-core fashion guy who favors a superskinny tie, stick with one that measures about three inches at its widest point. It will be narrower than traditional ties, but not by too much. Tie one on and you’ll look modern and sophisticated.

6. Thou shalt put your wallet on a diet

Your wallet should not be as fat as a burrito. In fact, you should get rid of your wallet and, while you’re at it, trash all the receipts, video cards, and other unnecessary crap that’s stuffed in it. Buy an elegant, slim leather credit card holder and stock it with your essential cards. Then, fold your cash in a money clip. All that other nonsense can go in your desk drawer. You don’t need it.

7. Thou shalt wear the right tie with the right tux

Two points to remember: (1) A bow tie goes best with a peak-lapel tuxedo, while a straight tie works better with a notch lapel. (2) Regardless of what kind of tie you’re wearing, make sure the fabric matches the lapel. If your lapel is grosgrain, your tie should be grosgrain. If your lapel is satin, your tie should be satin. And one more thing: Your tie (no matter its shape) should be black. Colored ties are for the prom.

8. Thou shalt wear brown shoes—with nearly everything

Black dress shoes are easy—they’re understated and tasteful. Brown dress shoes up the style factor. People notice them. They go best with gray, khaki, or navy. Dark brown shoes are easier to pull off than light brown ones.

9. Thou shalt learn when to cuff ‘em

If you’re wearing a trim, modern suit with flat-front pants—the kind often shown in this magazine—you should not cuff your pants. However, if you’re a guy who likes a classic suit with a single pleat, go for a cuff—but not more than one and a half inches deep.

10. Remember thy undershirt

This one’s tricky. If you’re wearing a conventional white broadcloth dress shirt (which means it’s fairly see-through), you have two options: Skip the undershirt and you’ll look clean and stylish. Or, if you’re a hairy guy who perspires a lot and you feel safer in an undershirt, wear a crewneck. The lines of a V-neck or tank top will be visible beneath your shirt and tie and you’ll look cheesy. If you prefer a V-neck or tank top, you might consider other dress shirts. Go for ones with checks or stripes, which make an undershirt less visible. Or opt for hardier fabrics, like an oxford cloth, which make undershirts all but invisible.

Yup, pretty spot on.